What is küşleme and which part of the lamb is it?

Küşleme is one of the names guests ask about most on an ocakbaşı menu. The short answer: küşleme is lamb tenderloin, the long, thin muscle that runs along the inside of the spine. Butchers also call it the inner fillet.

Why is it so tender?

The more a muscle works, the firmer and more fibrous the meat. Leg and shoulder muscles carry weight all day. The tenderloin barely moves; it sits protected under the spine. Its fibres are fine, there is little connective tissue, and it stays tender enough to cut with a fork.

That tenderness comes at a price. Tenderloin is very lean and dries out quickly if overcooked, which is why küşleme is cooked fast over high heat.

How much küşleme does one lamb give?

Every animal has two tenderloins, one on each side of the spine. A lamb is small, so these pieces are small too, and they make up a tiny share of the meat. That scarcity is the main reason küşleme costs more than other kebabs.

Küşleme, cubes, chops and yağlı kara

• Küşleme: tenderloin. The tenderest and leanest cut.
• Kuşbaşı (cubes): usually cut from harder-working muscles such as the leg or shoulder, with a more pronounced texture.
• Kalem pirzola (chops): loin cut with the rib bone, rich in flavour from cooking on the bone.
• Yağlı kara: loin with its fat cap. The fat melts over the fire and keeps the meat juicy.

Which is best is a matter of taste. Those who want a soft, clean flavour choose küşleme; those who want more character go for yağlı kara or chops.

How it is cooked

Küşleme goes onto skewers or whole onto the grill. Seasoning is kept light so the meat speaks for itself, often just salt and a little black pepper. Cooking is quick: the outside is seared and the meat comes off the fire while still pink and juicy inside.

At Quzu, küşleme comes two ways. From the grill, it is served with lavash, charred peppers and tomatoes. Butter küşleme is finished in a cast-iron pan and arrives at the table still sizzling.

Ordering tips

• Tell your server how you like it cooked. Tenderloin is juiciest rare or medium.
• Charred vegetables, sumac onions and a simple salad suit it better than heavy sauces.
• Taste the first bite plain before pairing it with lavash and vegetables.